I’m coming Hjem, Newcastle.
To be fair, Fenwick has been smashing it lately. While much of the high street suffers a drawn-out and torturous death, Fenwick stands proud on Northumberland Street and seems to make the notoriously difficult department store game look easy.
Recently the boujee rooftop bar, the modern and long-serving food hall, and the recent Greggs x Fenwick collaboration last year have all played their part. Off the back of that last one, they’ve gone to the other end of the spectrum and gutted the very same space, transforming it into a scandi-chic bare wood and clean lines space to make way for a popup by the team from Hjem.
I didn’t see that one coming…
Read here for those unfamiliar with Hjem. One of the region’s best. Tasting menu, new Nordic meets Northumberland. Very good, high-end, on brand for Fenwick.
They’ve adapted the menu a fair bit for this eight week popup, with a more a la carte/bistro vibe. Though a tasting menu of sorts exists with a selection of dishes which I assume are adapted for the eleven or so courses offered. This is £85pp. Expect to spend a similar amount, whatever you get.
We settled on just a mix of the twenty-three dishes on offer, starting with some snacks. There are a few rostis, and if the N25 caviar topping just isn’t flashy enough for you, try these with beef tartare, truffle, and quails egg, because why wouldn’t you. Perfect wee bites, as they wanna be for £3ea.
Gougeres are rich and pleasingly heavy. Light in pastry, but plump with cheese, they’re piped with Doddington’s gorgeous Parmigianno-esque dairy. They’re not warm, I assume baked earlier in the day? Which is a bit of a shame. Chicken liver parfait is a bit more familiar from the restaurant, here on soft and sweet brioche, somewhat restrained by some PX, it’s as rich a parfait as you’ll find.
Service is swift. ‘Hjem fried chicken thigh’ are four words I didn’t think I’d see together in 2024 but damn was I glad to — I’ve been on a right fried chicken hunt (usually hungover) this year, and this blew them away. Verging on too juicy for its own batter, you’ll not find chicken done this well in NE1. Kewpie mayo and a squeeze of lemon 👌🏼
You do get sourdough free of charge. Which is as welcome as it is well made, with some lovely salty butter.
Tarte flambée (£14) here with caramelised onion and pancetta continues the rich and decadent theme, and it’s a one I’d order again for sure. From the main courses, I would guess most people are having the no-brainer duck frites for 2. It is flawless.
You’ll not find a better piece of duck in a 100-mile radius, never mind a whole breast cooked just so beautifully. Dry-aged, the fat is burnished and rendered down just so 🤌🏻, the meat perfectly pink, and it’s just a joy to eat. That’s before it swims in some wonderfully aerated brown butter hollandaise which is light and nutty and you just wanna bath everything in it.
It comes with kebab shop-esque spiced fries, a frisée salad — mid-scran plating below my own — and it’s one of those dishes you’d eat again and again — as you would expect (for sixty nine quid!)
Drinks are worthy of your time. It wouldn’t be the worst idea to come here and have a few glasses of some superb wines on offer and a couple of snacks. They’ve ported a lot of the team including Alex and Ally over, as well as the sommelier, so you’re in safe hands. Can’t recall what it was but the beajoulais-ish match suggested for the duck was a delight.
Dessert line-up is pretty strong, with a lovely looking brûlée, financiers you’ll recognise from the petits fours at Hjem, and this doughnut (not freshly fried), and espresso semifreddo. Merely ‘good’ for £13.
Hjem x Fenwick will no doubt not dominate the headlines as its counterpart Greggs did, and its appeal is a little more niche than a pasty with some curry sauce. But it’s super befitting of Fenwick and for bringing Michelin-star dining ‘to the masses’, it’s an interesting concept.
Which is the dichotomy here. Our bill for two was nigh on £200 anyway, and I would have probably preferred just to spend the extra and go to the main restaurant. But for those reluctant to make the trek and go £330+ all in on Hjem’s 17-odd courses of fine dining, Hjem at Fenwicks is an approachable way in, with lots to love. If your interest is at all piqued, go check it out — until 4 August— and go for that duck, which will linger in memory for some time.
Contact: fenwick.co.uk/events/restaurants/restaurant-hjem-at-fenwick/
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