A little bit of Paris by way of Northumberland 🦌
UPDATE: Bistro 46 sadly closed for the final time sometime at the beginning of lockdown. You’ll find owner Max up at the Ox Inn in Middleton, Northumberland.
Bistro 46 (46 Brentwood Ave, Jesmond, NE2 3DH) is one of those neighbourhood restaurants that just always does the business.
Everyone’s had disappointing dining experiences, for a multitude of reasons. Shit service, disappointing food, dull menu. At Bistro 46, you just won’t get that.
It ticks all the boxes of a neighbourhood joint. A limited number of covers. 2/3 choice menu. Wine that punches above its weight. Suburban location. And most importantly, just simple food done well.
To give you a flavour of the menu, you’ll most often see chef/owner Max on Instagram out shooting in the dark of the morning. What you’ll see served that week is whatever was unlucky enough to be in his sights 🎯. So of course it’s game-heavy, with pigeon, rabbit, and venison making frequent appearances on the menu. You’ll see these alongside foraged goods, and veg from Ken Holland, like in the never-diabetes-sweet beetroot brownie (bottom).
If credentials matter, it’s held a Michelin plate for a number of years, indicating ‘good cooking’ and was deservedly lauded as a ‘Local Gem’ in this year’s Good Food Guide. Probably more significantly to the guys, you’ll also find a ‘Best restaurant regularly serving game 2018’ on the wall. That venison above has cured heart, a bon bon made from its assorted ‘bits’, and is served with a knife featuring a handle made from the deer’s antler. Some bleat about a no-waste approach — others live it.
You’ll certainly not see many restaurants in the NE celebrating British Game Week, but we had this last time round. Pigeon, mushroom, and chestnuts. On toast! Punchy stuff that slaps you right in the face. Class.
And really, the foraged nose-to-tail bits which I can only assume are Max’s passion, are the best bits. There’s a little merguez sausage with this absolutely beautifully done confit duck leg & chorizo cassoulet. I loved this so much I’ve had it twice. Another pigeon kebab comes with puree from its offal. Well-made terrines, preserved items, and pickles smatter many dishes.
Side note — you’ve always gotta get the truffle chips. Proper, worth the calories, leave you tired, crunchy and fluffy ‘like they used to be’ chips. Expect to leave full.
But to love the game isn’t to discredit any of the other cooking at all. This halibut dish simply with potatoes and a langoustine broth was just everything you want in a fish dish. You’re getting classic bistro dishes. If this was Paris, you’d be having food like this every day. Why don’t we embrace this in England?
You’ll not find a spiralised piece of inedible garnish anywhere. Or some wanky-shaped serving dish. Just big, rustic flavours.
I couldn’t miss a special menu paying homage to the late Anthony Bourdain just after his death in 2018. A celebration of Les Halles recipes like French Onion soup, Niçoise salad, boeuf bourguignon, and this intense bouillabaisse spiked with Pernod. You can see the influence.
It’s one of those restaurants where I can’t even feel bad shouting about it in case ‘it gets too popular and subsequently spoiled’. That won’t happen. Max & Bistro 46 will continue to put out the food that they want to cook and eat, and Jesmond and the North East will be all the better for it. And to come full circle on Bistro 46 & Anthony Bourdain:
Do we really want to … eat only in Hard Rock Cafes and McDonalds? Or do we want to eat without fear, tearing into the local stew, the humble taqueria’s mystery meat, the sincerely offered gift of a lightly grilled fish head? I know what I want.
I want it all. I want to try everything once”
You should too.
Contact: bistrofortysix.co.uk
Food hygiene rating: 5/5
Related Posts
