A bit more Aberdeenshire than Andalusia.
Cafe Andaluz (87-89 Grey St, NE1 6EG) opened its doors about three years ago on the corner of the theatre and Market Street, in the old Carluccio’s site. It’s a tapas restaurant promising the taste of Spain, and ‘to feel like you’ve arrived in Spain and left the day-to-day behind’. Bold claims. And just what I want, tbh.
We visited here right off the back of a visit to San Sebastian…so it was maybe up for a hiding before we’d stepped through the door. San Sebastian by the way, is fabulous. A must-visit for anyone vaguely into Spanish food, culture, or splendid cities. Cafe Andaluz, you were never gonna scratch that itch. But, I visit with an open mind nonetheless.
The last time we visited a Cafe Andaluz was at Edinburgh George Street back in 2009. Its allure was much stronger then, when there weren’t any real tapas places in Newcastle. It was kinda enigmatic and exciting. We maybe had La Viña on Grey Street at the time.
It’s a small chain so I’ll cut it some slack. But for those that remember, it maybe isn’t a million miles from La Viña.
Most shockingly of all, this restaurant is, on a non-descript Thursday night in Newcastle, absolutely packed. Easily close to 200 punters in. It’s an expansive space, but aren’t restaurants supposed to be struggling?
They often run a voucher promotion for five tapas plus desserts, sangria, bread and olives for £39. You can’t grumble at that, because it’s increasingly tough to eat out at that price. And perhaps that’s the whole appeal. Otherwise, expect tapas dishes for around seven quid each.
These are fairly by the book, from classics like jamon croquettes to more bizarre picks like prawns with that’s-not-very-Andalucian sweet chilli sauce, and goat’s cheese with chilli and orange jam.
Anyway, picked six tapas (added a cheeky pan con tomate), and service, despite being attentive and generally dead canny, whooshes dishes out worryingly quickly. I think we could have easily been in and out in under an hour — pro or a con, depending on your optics.
Tortilla is layered, and off the back of the archetypal Spanish omelette from Bar Nestor, it could only really bring disappointment. To be fair it wasn’t that bad, but as with everything else, clearly a quick toot in the microwave, and well, just bit dense and dry. The less said about the wet ratatouille-esque slurp of veg on the side, the better.
Gambas al pil pil can’t really be fucked up too badly if some plump prawns aren’t overcooked, which they weren’t. Generally decent, and that bread needed their spicy garlicky oil. I feel with prawns, the sunshine adds a lick of flavour that can’t be mimicked fifty-five degrees north.
They’ve gone for it inside, with all the usual ‘Spanish’ tat that blights this type of restaurant. It doesn’t make me feel like I’m in Spain. Our sangria feels like 80% lemonade to 20% wine, and the olives are flavourless. Spanish olive oils are some of my favourites, so a bit sad to not see them deployed lavishly here.
Paella for one is…OK. I wouldn’t have wanted any more than this. It’s not bad, it’s just not how they do it in Spain. Chorizo comes in a tomato sauce/stew thickened with black pudding which is an intense dish and gladly feels a little more Catalan. Roast aubergine is alright, it exists, it doesn’t excite me. Which is a lot of this.
Desserts are an excess but 🤷🏻♂️. Fresh fried, but not my favourite churros. They taste mostly of frying oil and for once probably don’t have enough cinnamon sugar. Their dipping sauce is though, surprisingly tempting, dark and glossy. But if returning, I’d have the crema catalana again, which is a decent pop at a Brûlée. It’s got a welcome amount of vanilla specks and a pleasingly gooey texture.
Cafe Andaluz is, I guess a by-the-numbers Spanish restaurant in Britain which means that it doesn’t surprise or delight, but manages to be fairly inoffensively consistent. The aesthetics don’t charm me, the cooking is firmly grounded in that anglicised version of Spanish food, and it doesn’t make me feel at all like I’m stumbling upon an amazing family tapas restaurant in Malaga.
Despite this, there are now seven Cafe Andaluz across Scotland & Newcastle, and people seem to love it, but then again, people love Nigel Farage so people can’t be trusted. if I was going again, it would have to be with the voucher, and maybe the business is OK with that. Me, I’d sooner visit Fuego for something similar that seems less Chef Mike, or Kaltur for something that at least tickles my tastebuds with something vaguely Spanish.
British people love tapas. Whether it’s El Gato, Lunya, or Barrafina, there’s a hole in Newcastle that someone will eventually fill, but for now — it’s OK, but it isn’t Cafe Andaluz.
Contact: cafeandaluz.com
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