There are plastic flowers on every wall. Neon signs. One that unironically states ‘Live, Love, Eat’. Tuktuk in the restaurant. ‘Cos you know, you might not have realised it’s Indian. Most heinous of all — it’s in Eldon Square. Have I made a mistake?
Chit ‘n’ Chaat is a franchise restaurant with eight other locations that’s just opened in Newcastle. It’s a relatively young chain, founded during the COVID years. And six of its locations are in Manchester including Rusholme and Cheadle. Looking from the outside in, it’s loud, it’s busy, it’s fairly by-the-numbers, with an Indian street food menu. Chains have been getting slowly better — but is this one of those?
That Rusholme birthplace should be a good indicator. Manchester’s curry mile is as good a place as any to find Indian food in the UK. So, strange that it finds itself in the Grey’s Quarter (have they dropped that branding?) of Eldon Square. An area I famously love for its restaurants.
It only just opened last weekend, so I thought i’d give it its one chance.
There’s absolutely no surprises on the play-it-safe menu. Pani puri, aloo tiki, dosas, curries. ‘Indian street food’. Maybe the momos, Manchurian, and Hakka noodles, but Indo-Chinese sections on menus are popular right now. Of course, the average cost of a vada pav in Mumbai is about 22p, so I don’t think street food necessarily translates here in exactly the same way. But there abouts. Here it’s £5.50. Not great, not terrible.
This type of dining is an increasingly crowded space in town. We’ve got My Delhi, Mowgli, Dabbawal et al in Newcastle, so it’s safe to say… went in with some fairly low expectations.
The masala dosa arrives (£8.95), it’s a big ‘un, like the plate is a mere suggestion. And suddenly all is well at Chit ‘n’ Chaat. The dosa itself, crisp and tender stuffed with a mustard-y potato filling, and its trio of chutneys on the side. The savoury tomato of which is best, as is often the case. The idli is the only one which falls a bit flat and a bit thin and meh. But generally some good spicing throughout. It’s way better than I expected. Wait, this might actually be alright?
Vada pav isn’t quite as good. I enjoyed it, and it’s better than that I’ve had at Dabbawal recently which is a fair praise. And I’m a big fan of dry garlic chutney. Tip: go and make some if you’ve got the Dishoom cookbook. But it could have done with some more tamarind and coriander chutney which for me is what makes the dish so great. Enjoyable all the same, in that comforting way a vada pav is.
Pani puri are a fair take on the now-classic in the UK Indian dish. Crisp and fresh with mint water. Again I’d like more tamarind, but it’s decent. And they haven’t otherwise dumbed it down calling it ‘Bombay Bombs’ or owt daft like that. Similarly, okra fries are moreish. Spoiler — no they’re not a patch on the seminal Bundobust version. But as much as I keep trying to find an equivalent, I don’t think anywhere will ever make a dent into how well they’re battered and fried. These are more breading than okra, but still a good nibble. Perhaps a bit mean for £6.95.
There’s an uninspired drinks menu, so we get a mango lassi and a masala chai, both serviceable and solid 7/10, if on the smaller side.
Finally, there are but five ‘larger’ curries. I went for a paneer kadai (£11), which felt like treading a well-worn path. Plenty of paneer, well spiced. Nothing mind-blowing, but a very solid interpretation of the dish, and I’ve had much worse curries at well-established restaurants in Newcastle, so it’s not damning with faint praise. A good balance of heat, acidity, salt and spice kept me coming back for more. Although, naan alongside it was on the dry side. Maybe get the butter naan.
There are biryanis too, which looked solid from afar and what I’d order next time.The biggest surprise to me being that there might be a next time.
Is there something to be said for street food — accessible and reliable, in a shopping centre where you expect safety and familiarity? Maybe. I almost wish they’d taken a unit outside of Eldon Square and the whole thing would have felt quite different. That said, it’s opposite the opened-at-the-same-time Flight Club. Maybe the shopping centre is taking a more positive turn? I hope so. Being sandwiched between Ask and Bella Italia… 😬
I can overlook the plastic flowers and the cheesy faux-corporate interior when there’s some nice dishes to be had. And sure, there’s plenty of well-established Indian street food restaurants in Newcastle now. That doesn’t mean Chit ‘n’ Chaat doesn’t deserve a place. Maybe my mistake was thinking Eldon Square = disaster, because If you absolutely have to eat in a shopping centre, Chit ‘n’ Chaat is the best of the bunch in here.
Contact: https://www.chitnchaat.com
Meal for two inc. 10% service: £52
Location: Lower floor, Eldon Square (Grey’s Monument entrance)
Opening times: 11:30–10:00 (Mon–Sat), 11:30–9:30 (Sun)
