When an Italian chain restaurant comes to the UK.
Doppio Malto (Yellow Mall, Metrocentre, NE11 9XZ) — that’s ‘double malt’ in Italian is the second UK site for the Italian chain restaurant, which also happens to be a brewery. Or is it a brewery that does food? I’m still not sure.
It’s a chain that is new to me despite having 30+ outlets across Europe, predominantly in the homeland. Surprise #1 being that Italy does indeed have its own versions of Zizzi, Bella Italia, etc. Is a chain restaurant automatically more exotic if its roots are actually in Italy, and not Slough? Perhaps.
‘Italian craft beer and fine food‘ sings the website, hence my uncertainty about the key product here. But to set the tone, to announce their opening, the brand delivered me some beers in their Doppio Malto-branded Ferrari 812 GTS (I think) which hey, is very Italian. It even broke down a few times on the way. Yes, really.
But is Doppio Malto the cool and might never work but you love it anyway Alfa Romeo 4C, or the hun-fuelled bland AF carbon-copy Fiat 500?
First impressions are squarely on the beers, and you know what they’re alright. I’m amazed it isn’t a USP that’s caught on over here — run a brewery that then opens a restaurant to serve its own beer. Make them fit together. Is there anyone doing similar? Maybe it’s a very difficult USP, but the overall standard of beers in UK chain restaurants is bleak.
Made out of Erba in Northern Italy & Sardinia, it’s a range which touts itself as ‘Modern Italian’. I’m honestly not familiar with Italian craft breweries, but here are ~15 beers ranging from a middle-of-the-road Pilsner to a 9% black imperial IPA. There’s a couple of diversions to Hefeweizen-land, and a sole, lonely stout. It’s joyfully, not all just lagers!
They range from just ‘alreet’ to very drinkable indeed and I ploughed through nearly all of them at the beer tasting PR event. Sniff some hops, taste the beers, from an IPA with honey, a 7% ginger ale, and easy-drinking pale with orange. It would be nice to see some more dark beers, but I dig that there’s confidence to push higher-ABVs. The range should have something for the average Metrocentre punter, even those that have graduated onto Punk IPA or Neck Oil.
Quickly; stout is very ‘Irish dry’ (see: Guinness), flagship Sexy IPA is bitter and very malt-forward but quite sessionable for 6%, lager and pilsner styles will sell the most and are fine, even if just an alternative to UK macro beers. There’s a very-on-trend proper bitter, and even caramalt-y English ales. It’s not exactly Cloudwater’s take on a restaurant business, but is surprisingly, not bland. That said, for the big DIPA fans, you’re gonna find a distinct lack of hops (though I appreciate those are still a minority).
On the food side, there is a huge menu with pasta, pizza, burgers, sandwiches, grilled meats, salads, and even more. As you’d expect, highs and lows, but far too much on the menu, really 🚩
Such beige and we tried nothing overly exciting. Despite beer-naises and a weird fried ham & mozzarella sandwich, it’s very much ‘fried and salty to keep you thirsty’ drinking food. A sizeable meat platter (below) fared much better — though for £23×2 — it bloody well should. Steak has a kiss of grill-smoke flavour. Chicken is not only juicy but also free-range! Italian sausages are forgettable, and a huge cross-section of pork rib is excessive but makes the whole thing very ‘grammable which I suppose is the MO. And look at those well lit-tables 📸. I’d be keener to try the pizza/pasta dishes, as I’m sure the typical Yellow Mall punter will be.
Cannily, every dish has a beer pairing or contains the beers. ‘Beeramisu’ will no doubt be the top-selling dessert and is a fair take on the classic, replete with stout soaked ladyfingers. And I’m usually against dishes like this, but the cannoli were improved by the addition of a DIY piping bag. Fun for the kids (and me…)
Would I usually come to Doppio Malto and casually spend ~£90 on food (excluding drinks) here?
Absolutely not. Would I come and enjoy a couple of beers and some popcorn or a nibble if I was stuck in the Metrocentre for an hour or two? Defo. For now (as mad as this may be) you’ll not find a better beer on the entire retail park.
Contact: doppiomalto.co.uk
Food hygiene rating: TBC
* Disclosure — Doppio Malto sent me a dozen beers ahead of their launch and then we were invited to this beer & food event free of charge. There was no requirement to post anything, but as ever, these are my thoughts on the whole shebang. If you’d like to discuss further, please do contact me.
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