Quality sourcing combined with a Josper grill equals 🥰
Smoke & Sear Kitchen (182 Heaton Rd, NE6 5HP) started life in 2018 as a street food van kicking arse at the local markets, before recently making the jump to full-time kitchen. You might recognise it as pre-pandemic Shanty Town, but the format was pretty much the same. Flame-grilled meats, fries, slaw, sauces, you know the drill.
They opened a sit-in Heaton Road gaff in 2021 which feels very fitting for the type of food it’s become known for. Barebones and always full of students and locals looking for a big feed after a heavy night out, or catching up with friends and family. What really piqued my interest was the Josper Grill they were using…
As seen in the ‘Steak Supper’ which I guess will be the cornerstone of the menu forever. It’s flame-grilled steak (hence Smoke & Sear) with fries, slaw, and various sauces in large or small, or above, with panko prawns as surf & turf (£16). Thinly sliced bavette is a fab and underused cut and lends itself ideally to a rapid flash grilling.
It’s steak frites by another name. Sure, the steak is marinated in ‘dog’, the salsa verde plays a great balancing part, and even the fries are strong. But I can’t help feeling like I loved it more in a paper tray at the Almasty taproom than on a plate. Good feed though, and you’ve got try it if you’re new.
But you’re far more likely to find me having the Toon Pastrami — Northern Rye sourdough and in-house cured and smoked pastrami which I reckon is the best in the North East. Meat is c/o Block & Bottle, Charlotte’s etc. so reliable, naturally. And free range. It’s a big, rich eat, smokey and salty and laughs in the face of many burgers out there, let alone piddly sandwiches that still blight a lot of places. Though sourdough isn’t the natch choice for a Reuben-esque dish, it’s still the de facto loaf in town and just about keeps the meat friendly with the mustard and the dill pickles. For a tenner, I loved it so much, I included it here 🙌🏻
Perhaps I gravitate towards Heaton to save me in these situations, but Smoke & Sear has gotten me through the toughest of recent hangovers. Big birthday nights outs, ‘one-too-many’ on a sunny day, multiple work dos, they’ve all been rescued by Smoke & Sear. It’s hardly surprising that it’s been a safe haven when 👇🏼
As far as breakfasts go, it’s a fixer alright. This is the ‘Big ‘Un’ feat. double of everything. The product of Block & Bottle bits of pig and Northern Rye toast tends to focus the mind.
And that’s the story of Smoke & Sear really. Take some lovely local products, smack them with a little fire and more often than not you’ll have a winner. Whether it’s Pink Lane Bakery goodies, Tynemouth Coffee beans, or the best butchers in the city, the sourcing does much of the heavy lifting. The intense fire of the Josper grill does the rest.
Not from the grill obviously, but do order those little triangles of potato. You’ll see everyone ordering a side of hash browns, and I’d guess they’ll continue to be The Side dish of 2023 and beyond. Here they’ve got the crispy/soft ratio just right, and beg to be dunked in the sauces which are all house made, including this ever so slightly smoky ketchup.
Saw someone recently finish his meal, and then just order these for afters. I salute you, sir.
I’m struggling to think of a breakfast I enjoy more in NCL at the moment, but just as good was the riff on an old McDonalds fixer-upper. The Pink Lane Bakery English muffin is really as good as you’ll find anywhere and much like the Toon Pastrami, put some nice fatty pork betwixt it, and thou shalt be healed.
Despite a meaty focus, there’s good vegan service, and whole menus dedicated to hot chocolates and croffles (cruffin/waffle hybrids) keeping things firmly in brunch land. But mains are a big feed and we’ve yet to manage a sweet.
It’s fully licensed, with PBR for the hipsters, a few local tinnies, even a couple of natty wines and some no/low-alcoholics. Punching, I’d say, for a restaurant like this. Service is usually swift and sufficiently smiley too. They know fine well you’re here ‘cos you’re hanging.
Either book, or get there early as it’s becoming much like nearby Butterfly Cabinet as an NE6 weekend staple. I get the vibe they want to expand the offering and have an more rounded ‘proper’ evening service — recent dishes nod to this but always remain specials, so who knows what some menu experimentation would bring.
Alas, when you’re doing breakfasts & brunches this good, sometimes you’ve just gotta listen to the world when it says ‘that’ll do’.
Contact: smokeandsear.co.uk
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