NE1 🍕, Detroit style
Square / Hip To Eat Square (1 Market St, NE1 6JE) opened mid-2021 in the old Kracklin’ site. It peddles, very simply: Detroit style pizza.
It took Newcastle 2010 years to get some good Neapolitan pizza, and now it’s bloody everywhere. So thank Square for putting something new into the mix. Detroit style has — I believe — been bang on trend over the past 3-4 years in the same way that quesabirria has, in that it looks good on social media. This is where we are today people. I’m sure you saw this one. Does look good though, aye?
For the uninitiated, Detroit style pizza is all about a dough with a light yet chewy focaccia-esque crust. It’s then generally loaded with toppings making it filling and heavy overall, with the the a-ha moment being cheese baked while directly in contact with the steel sheet pan, leaving a mahogany brown cheese frill up the sides of the slice. And of course, it’s square.
Square have been first off the block in Newcastle to offer this, so became the de facto in Newcastle by sheer first mover advantage. The only others I can see are (on hiatus?) Midnight Pizza Cru in Sunderland (check out their 2022 Raby Hunt collab…). Wide open market, people!
But that’s not to take away from it. I really didn’t enjoy the first few slices I had from here, which I can mark down to teething issues. But the more I have of the core slices, the more I enjoy them.
They have about six pies on the counter, from Pep Talk (pepperoni, etc) to a collab with neighbours Lola Jeans, the Clancy Wiggum. For me, layering on —deep breath— three cheeses, smashed burger patties, cheese sauce, onion jam, bacon, BBQ sauce, baconnaise, and frazzles is a step too far, but you do you. I’m admittedly a fan of restrained simplicity, but this for me it’s a slice with too much sauce on that feels like eating mayonnaise on bread. I’m not really a fan of the piped ricotta that’s started doing the rounds, either, but whatevs.
But keep it simple and quality can be found. That £4 red top slice (top) is a solid slice, and the Pep Talk is runny with honey and pepperoni, and really, there is something irresistible about that cheesy crust. It’s like the best bits of a toastie machine cheese toastie when the cheese all seizes up and goes meaty and chewy; a little treat at the end of your slice.
Slices are £4-£5 and pies £20-£25 which I’m still amazed that I’ll pay but I guess that’s where the cost of living is these days. That said, we recently had legit ‘dollar’ slices in Manchester for £1ea, so…
I’d love to see what the guys can do next, or if it’s a single note performance. But if you’re at a nearby gig and want some carbs, or have late night munchies and only a city centre slice will do it, you could do a lot worse than Square. Me? I don’t imagine I’ll ever break my bond with Neapolitan or even NY-style, but a few flirtations with something square and crunchy can be a whole lotta fun too.
Contact: hiptoeatsquare.com
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