Nobody does it better.
Nobody (stylised NOBODY. because, aye), picks up where Wild Fire pizza left off, taking up residency in The Ship Isis kitchen.
Speaking of which, it’s great to see Wild Fire go from van to pop-up to fully-fledged restaurant just down the road from here. No surprise really when they’re by far the best pizzas you’ll get in Sunlun. Perhaps Nobody could do the same, because equally, these are the best burgers Sunderland has seen. I mean, it’s been the only burger place to motivate me to cross the river since this disaster. Haven’t times changed?
Including the latest burger trends which have gone from ‘hoy some frazzles on it’ to ‘smash burgers only’ apparently. Nobody doesn’t bleat on about, well anything really. There’s zero marketing material. Social media lets the pics tell the story, and it’s basically smashed burgers, fries and chicken. And these are proper smashed. Lovely frilly crust that extends way beyond the bun, as you’d expect. They’re big on that strong, almost overwhelming beef flavour which I dig. They’re £12.50 with fries which doesn’t feel too bad. No choice of toppings, so even if you did want frazzles/doughnuts/pulled pork, you’ll get pickle and cheese. I like the simplicity. Focus on what makes a good burger.
If beef isn’t your bag (🤷🏻♂️), you can have chicken instead. Also a winner, it is two plump tenders with lettuce, pickles, hot sauce. Just as hard to fault really. It’s not just a mayo or sauce fest like a lot of other burgers and restaurants are lately. Burgers are a saturated market and the takeaways masquerading as restaurants have lowered the bar somewhat — that’s Friez&Burgz if you’re keeping track — but this is a proper ‘we’ve taken the care with this one’. They’re as good as any smashes you’ll find in Newcastle.
Fries are fine and not a soggy one among them, but it’s the dips that leave the lasting impression. They’re made here, and the ranch in particular was great, super cooling and the perfect sidekick for chicken. BBQ had a good smack to it as well, actually worth the effort and it’s good to see some care towards ‘the little things’.
The chicken tenders are just bloody brilliant. If anything, even better than during the Wild Fire days. They’re so delicately fried. The coating is super light but crisp and they’re just barely cooked through. Really juicy, and I can’t recall a better one I’ve had recently? Normally you’ll pay £7.50 for three but if you’re gonna have chicken, this is a very good way to treat it.
Also from the Wild Fire stable is the chocolate chip cookie. An ideal sweet treat, it’s as chewy as it is crumbly, rich and would be my ‘quintessential with a glass of milk’ cookie. Pint of ever-reliable Looper and it’s as good a pub lunch as you’ll get in Sunderland. I like The Ship Isis. It is managing to keep that spirit of an old Victorian (1885!) pub alive. It’s dark-panelled with twisting rooms and beer brewed in the basement. Strong cask selection, brass everywhere, a vibe that can only be captured in a building that predated the invention of the light bulb. Still, what Sunderland really needs is some natty wine bars or just plain old craft beer peddling micropubs. Is there really no demand?
You could look at Nobody and say it’s just burgers in a pub, but it represents more than that. We visited as part of Sunderland’s Restaurant Week and looking at the list of participants just a few years back I remember thinking ‘Christ, Sunderland has got absolutely fuck all’. But skimming through the list of 2025 offers, there’s some quality to be found. Some of the restaurants that would catch my attention are offshoots of Newcastle ventures like My Delhi and Scream for Pizza (to be fair I hope the Sheepfolds development is a roaring success), but there are green shoots of even just a desire for something better here. Which, black or white or red or white, we can all get behind.
The world is falling apart, hospitality is still struggling. It’s going to get worse in April, and even more so in Sunderland. It’s a city that I’ve derided multiple times over for being devoid of anywhere great to eat. But for its flaws, when it comes to Sunderland, NOBODY. is perfect.
Contact: nobody.website
Address: 26 Silksworth Row, Sunderland, SR1 3QJ
Info: Check opening and service times
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